Its seriously low-maintenance: the name rosemary comes from the Latin for dew (ros) and sea (marinus), because all it needs is the humidity of a sea breeze to flourish. Our hunch is that forget-me-not is simply there to help conjure up an image for the perfume either to give a sense of delicacy and softness, or for emotional reasons: according to folklore, the wearers of forget-me-nots would not be forgotten, by their lovers. Jo Malone London Lime, Basil & Mandarin Chanel No. Donna Karan DKNY (The shoots, leaves and seeds are also used in cooking, while ambrette flowers are sometimes used to add scent and flavour to tobacco). Yves Saint Laurent LHomme. Opoponax catches alight easily, which explains why its been used for incense for centuries: King Solomon apparently regarded opopanax as the noblest of incense gums. So with the rise in gourmand fragrances, marshmallow has begun to feature as a fantasy note in perfumes, adding an airy sweetness, sometimes with a toasted marshmallow edge. Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild Chanel No. Once upon a time, dried fruits were a serious luxury, for the wealthy to enjoy in haute cuisine. ", Organic compounds are present in many natural materialsthat can be synthesized artificially, such as the aliphatic aldehydes used to give sparkle to Chanel No. (Aromatherapeutically, mimosa is said to have properties that help to relieve stress and depression, FYI.). Sometimes, a perfumer will put them side by side in the same fragrance, to create the equivalent of a fig soliflore. By Kilian Incense Oud The natural oil is also used in the liqueur Chartreuse (with its signature bright yellow-green colour, evoking the flowers of the plant itself), while the stem can be candied. These are fruits or citrus-smelling raw materials (notably verbena and lemongrass) and a few are among the most ancient ingredients in perfumery alongside resins. ), Happily, ionones recreate the scent of Parma violets almost perfectly. I had to see what it was like, then I fell totally in love with it. Originating from Mexico, Central America and Columbia, and then hybridised by clever Dutch plant breeders, dozens of species of tuberous dahlia now brighten our summer gardens. The most common ingredient found in perfume bottles is essential oils. Nice myth, though. Best Day-to-Night Scent Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium Eau de Parfum $139 at Sephora 5 Best Sultry Scent Carolina Herrera Good Girl Eau de Perfume $106 at Amazon 1 Best for Layering The Harmonist. Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque Once upon a time (in the Victorian/Edwardian era), carnation was hugely fashionable (and if you ever manage to get your hands on a bottle of Carons now-extinct Bellodgia, you can experience just why it was so beloved). Dior Dune 5 its airy overture: it tethers the creation). The Brooklyn brand's Debaser perfume is a hit thanks to its intoxicating mix of ingredientsand an unexpected boost from the fragrance heads on TikTok. What is it? Katy Perry Meow However, because its increasingly rare, the prices have um spiked, putting it beyond the reach of many contemporary perfumes. An ancient natural remedy, lavenders a flowering member of the mint family well, several members, because different types of lavender are used in perfumery. "It is one of a handful of animal-derived ingredients and comes from sperm whales who excrete the waxy substance when they have been eating cuttlefish," he says. Freesia works perfectly to complement lily of the valley, peony, magnolia, but is rarely the shining star of a perfume itself. Givenchy Organza ", Frangipani is a fragrant tropical flower, also known as "West Indian Jasmine.". Calvin Klein Escape Guerlain Samsara Bark: Tree barks are common ingredients for making perfumes. Creed Green Irish Tweed But as the stories behind fragrance ingredients go, they surely dont come much more romantic than that, Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris Its use in perfumery goes back millennia: galbanum appears in the Old Testament as an ingredient in holy incense, and was an ingredient of the Egyptian perfume Metopian. It can be described as ambery, leathery, woody, animalic, honey, warm, smokey, balsamic, fruity and overall brings a sophisticated warmth to a fragrance," says perfumer Linda Song. (Closer to home, this shiny-leafed exotic can often be found on sale as a potted plant in garden centres and some natural food stores: one single open flower can perfume a room, its so heady and lush.). Same sweetness but more subtle. Lanvin Arpge ), The supposed Greek legend linked with the flower is well-known: Narcissus was a handsome youth who fell in love with his own reflection, on seeing it in a pool. ', He continues: 'I do not use that many fruit chords in my creations, butraspberry is just perfect with roses. Vast amounts of perfume industry research dollars have gone into creating alternatives to this cornerstone ingredient: patented notes like Galaxolide, Andoxal, Nirvanolide, Celestolide, Velvione, Helvetolide, among other inventively-named creations. More commonly, ink is a synthetic novelty ingredient, used mostly in mens fragrances to give a mysterious hint of solvent or damp moss, or (romantically) to conjure up the vision of someone writing love letters, perhaps, with a good old-fashioned quill. Lush Orange Blossom The whole tanning process smells repulsive, though, so leathers were treated with oils, musk, civet and ambergris, to mask the smell of the animals skins. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture The Fragrance Shop's head of brand, Athina Macpherson offered some interesting insights into how Britons spent their money on fragrances this year. ClarinsEauRessourcante Hugo Boss Boss Woman, A wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and sensual all at once. Actually, iris runs the spectrum from sweet to earthy: it also works brilliantly to fix other ingredients, giving a more lasting quality to florals and base notes. In India, meanwhile, its known for its aphrodisiac powers (young women are advised not to breathe its scent, after dark.) In some hot places, vetiver is woven into blinds and matting, which are not only wonderfully fragrant as the breeze wafts through them or theyre trodden underfoot: vetiver has cooling properties. THE REASON TO BUY CHANEL PERFUMES: High-quality ingredients and a status symbol. Our favourite lilac legend, though, is that the deep floral fragrance was believed in Celtic cultures to transport humans into fairyland and the spiritual world. Perhaps unsurprisingly, frangipani pairs well with ingredients from tropical fruits, and coconut. Well, recently, the third most abundant metal on earth has made an appearance mostly in mens perfumery, so far to add a cooling, metal edge, for instance in the Blood Concept fragrances, but also Creeds Acier Aluminium, which was inspired (so they put it) by the chain mail worn by medieval knights. Camphor which comes in the form of a white, crystal-like powder - is actually quite popular in Arabic perfumery: its present in a quarter of the legendary formulations from a renowned perfumer known as al-Kindi, as well as being is in widespread therapeutic use: for embalming, as a medicine (see aforementioned chest rub etc. Boucheron Boucheron Oh, and also German jasmine. Then youll know that honey comes in so many different varieties, each taking their smell (and colour) from the flowers on which the bees that produce it have feasted. Vivienne Westwood Boudoir But with zero calories. Diptyque Philosykos Eau de Toilette This unisex . Its spicy-floral character works perfectly in many different florals though in small quantities; a known sensitiser for a very small percentage of wearers, its one of the ingredients which perfume houses must compulsorily list on a label. I love them for that. DSquared Potion for Women (When you smell gin, youre basically smelling juniper, actually.) Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive, very reminiscent of vanilla. 19 The clear, almost colourless oil is steam-distilled from the fresh or partly-dried pods, and the spiciness of the resulting oil goes especially well in Ambre-style perfumes, working well alongside cardamom, bay, coriander, lavender, neroli, orange, petitgrain, mandarin, cedarwood and rosewood. In fact, its what Guerlains in-house nose Thierry Wasser used to plug a hole in a new, fractionated oakmoss note, to make it smell just like the original and so, return the legendary Mitsouko to its former glory. Aldehydes triggered a revolution in perfumery. It smells like skin itself. Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb: Most popular women's perfume. Histoire de Parfums Vert Pivoine It was first described in the 14th Century; the Arabs called benzoin frankincense of Java, and its had a seriously long tradition of use in pomanders, pot pourri, incense and soaps. Cinnamomum cassia even has cinnamon in its botanical name, and is known sometimes as Chinese cinnamon, or even false cinnamon. LArtisan Parfumer Dzing! Chanel Allure Eau de Parfum Givenchy Ange ou Demon Today, of course, its not the natural stuff that perfumers use, but a huge array of synthetic musks, ranging from sweet, powdery musks to almost metallic versions. Queen Rihanna's favorite fragrance comes from Kilian's lineupso you know it's good. And there's whale fecal matter involved in this musky scent. Fragrances can be leathery but its not really essence-of-leather in that bottle, as Andy Tauer explains below. Serge Lutens Sa Majeste La Rose Artemisia refers to a large family of aromatic plants think: mugwort (moxa, in Chinese medicine), tarragon and wormwood. Anyone for Naked Lady? ), FreshCannabis Rose Jean-Claude Ellena and Geza Schoen - who creates scents for Ormonde Jayne use a lot of pink pepper, and Karyn Khoury (Creative Director for Este Lauder) has long been a fan, first introducing it into Pleasures, which has become a major classic: pink pepper adds a piquancy and freshness, and its here to stay. A really expensive fragrance material one of the priciest in the world, in fact - boronia comes from a fragrant shrub native to Australia. 26 Luxe Candles Youll Want to Gift Everyone This Year, The 20 Best Perfumes for Women of 2023 (And All Time), Aftershave vs. Cologne: The Byrdie Boy Guide to Finding Your Scent, 15 Summer Fragrances That Will Mentally Teleport You to the Beach, The 12 Best Bath & Body Works Scents of 2023, The 6 Most Expensive Perfume Ingredients in the World, TikTok's Favorite Perfume Now Comes as a Shimmering Body Oil. Oscar de la Renta Oscar Guerlain Nahma Citron is French for lemon. Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras With their sweet and vanilla-y softness, quite a few gourmand fragrances list sugar as a note. A gum resin, tapped from the True Myrrh tree, or Commiphora Myrrha which originates from parts of Arabia, Somalia and Ethiopia; the resins produced by tapping the tree to make small incisions, from which small teardrop-shaped droplets emerge and are left to harden into bead-like nuggets, which are then steam-distilled to produce an essential oil. The shift in sustainability, then, is coming from brands developing new technologies to extract essential oils and create safer and cleaner synthetic alternatives. "Heliotrope is an herbaceous plant that produces small flowers with white, purple, or blue shades. It brings out the flavors of ginger, onions, adds warmth to the cocktail of exotic flavors from clove, pepper, cumin, fenugreek. Penhaligons Juniper Sling. Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh Kiss Juicy Couture Juicy Couture In common with balsam of Peru and balsam of tolu, this is an oil tapped from a tree (Styrax benzoin), after deliberately damaging the bark. Donna Karan Black Cashmere It isnt just the fruit thats used: apple blossom gives a soft, floral air to fragrances and lately, theres been a trend to using something called an apple tree note: in fact, a synthetic, fantasy ingredient which delivers a fruity-woodiness. ", Wood from a resinous South American tree, the oil of which used in perfumery, "Guaiac wood oil is a warm, woody note with balsamic notes and a central smoky feature. (Its a little like vetiver, if you close your eyes.) The Different Company Pure Virgin. Miller Harris Fleurs de Bois Goutal ParisEau dHadrien Generally blooming from March to mid-April (earlier, if temperatures are warmer), the beautiful cherry blossom also known as sakura is a welcome harbringer of Spring, and has become an iconic feature of Japan's tourist industry, with visitors flocking to see the stunning canopies of pink blooms in all their splendour. Were not sure why the three balsamic ingredients (copaiba, Peru and tolu) have the word balsam first balsam of but that seems to be the tradition, One of springs favourite flowers, hyacinth gets its name from the Greek language: flower of rain. Illolahia says that ambergris is typically used as a fixative in perfumery, and has a subtle but long-lasting odor. ), Chanel Bois des Iles The plant itself is found in Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, areas of the US like Florida, and Australia. Stella McCartneyStella ChloLove Eau Intense There are thought to be over 20,000 different orchids altogether. Clive Christian no.1 (price- $2150 per oz) Channel grand extrait ($4200 per oz) Shalini Perfume (2.2 oz bottle $900) Chanel No. Though production of these colognes and perfumes are mostly abroad, the Philippines is a great source of supply for the most common scents the world's most popular brands use. It may not come as a surprise, though, to discover that this is a synthetic, or fantasy, ingredient rather than something lovely distilled from desserts, puddings or candies. Diluted, blended, civet morphs into something altogether lustily musky and inviting, adding warmth and radiance to floral scents especially, and working as a fixative. (Its completely unrelated to lime trees, by the way: the name lime evolved from the 16th Century Middle English word lind. "Sandalwood is an extraordinary wood with a deliciously creamy, milky scent, almost buttery, with the strength of a vertical and dense wood," says Michalon-Bertier. La Bouche Rouge creates sustainable perfumes by upcycling ingredients La Bouche Rouge, the French make-up brand known for blending luxury with an eco-conscious mentality, launches its first range of perfumes Sign up to our newsletter (Image credit: La Bouche Rouge) By Mary Cleary published 27 minutes ago "In perfumery, we use the oil extracted from the lemon peel, which is zesty and juicy, and gives brightness to a fragrance," says perfumer Dana Schmitt. In total, we exclude over 170 ingredients from our fragrancesmore exclusive than the list of ingredients banned by the International Fragrance Association. Max Mara Le Parfum 'A very powerful molecule, in both masculine and feminine fragrances,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. Florentine iris ticks perfumers boxes, too. Diptyque Eau de Tarocco (Especially now fruity-florals are so popular in our fragrance wardrobes: blueberries work really well to enhance floral perfumes.) Rich and heady, tiar is also used to create monoi oil (familiar from many suntanning products), by macerating the flowers in coconut oil. "In the Aztec language, it's called 'the flower made of little bones,'" says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli Walk through a garden especially at dusk and youll smell honeysuckle way before you see it: heady and nectarous, a little like jasmine tinged with vanilla. Instead, its the name given to a simple fragrance accord of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla and/or, sometimes, touches of tonka and Peru balsam, which also have a sweet, resinous quality. Today, iris plants happily grow everywhere from Europe to the Middle East, Asia and north Africa. Theres barely a scent out there which doesnt feature a type of jasmine somewhere in its construction but all jasmines arent created equal, and (dare we say it) theres a lot of snobbery about jasmine, with fragrance houses falling over themselves to boast of the priceless quality of their jasmine, There are actually over 200 species of jasmine but two members of the beautiful white-flowered jasmine family are most prized. Here's perfumer Sarah McCartneyof 4160 Tuesdayson Tolu balsam 'Funny how the official descriptions just say is smells balsamic. Cassie. Of course its not actual grenadine itself which is made from pomegranate juice, cherry juice and sugar which perfumers use: the grenadine note is generally synthetic. The soft, sweet, pretty-pretty powderiness of blossoms from the flowering Prunus so prized in Japan are expected to start turning up in many more fragrances, as perfume starts to look East in earnest. Next time youre biting into a date that dried fruit, which conjures up images of oases, palm trees (and just possibly camels) have a sniff, first. Gwen Stefani L And the difference shouldnt surprise us: pink pepper comes from the Brazilian pepper tree and the Peruvian pepper tree (relatives of mangoes and cashews), not the Piper nigrum plant which provides the spice we scrunch onto our food. Why not sniff that out, and let your nostrils decide what they think of Iso E Super? (Without realising that the stamens of the true crocus can be used in our cooking), Agent Provocateur Agent Provocateur Hydroxycitronellol - a synthetic-only compound very common in fragrances of all kinds from fine to household cleaners. In Classic myth, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus. Intensely green green as spring itself the smell of hyacinth develops as the flower blooms. Here, you can read about literally hundreds of the different perfume elements . Because the Sequoia sempervirens tree is endangered, however through loss of habit and over-logging chances are its a fantasy sequoia. In recent years, perfumers have been giving thanks for celery. Steam distillations used to extract the essential oil. Guerlain Shalimar Solid and as uncomfortable as can be. Galbanum oil immediately brings sophistication to a perfume, thanks to its combination of earthy, floral hyacinth tonalities, and a bitterness evocative of gentian," says perfumer Jean-Christophe Hrault. Its fascinating to us how perfumes which are invisible can have a texture, but the fragrances listed below really do give a sense of that, as they cocoon you with their musky, woody, velvety, leathery qualities. Guerlain Cuit Beluga Kenzo LEau Par Kenzo How well do you know your perfume ingredients? is a member of the olive family.). Dolce & Gabbana The One Guess. Its almost impossible to believe, actually, that this grounding, dry smell comes from the roots of a perennial grass also known as Khus-khus grass - rather than a wood. (Theyre left in a cool, dry place, and need protection against fungus and insect attack which would destroy the producers valuable harvest.). Unpick the chemical structure of this plant and youll find its incredibly rich in an aroma compound called eugenol - so quite often, what you smell in a perfume hasnt come from a plant at all, but has been synthesised. LArtisan Parfumeur Mre et Musc Pears themselves are a fruit-bowl staple today (though only really satisfying when truly in season, wed say). (Yes, think concentrated cat pee.) Lavender is thought to have originated in the highlands of India, but today its happy in all sorts of sunny, stony, well-drained spots around the world. Bamboo is of course also linked with Asian culture: its the Chinese symbol of longevity, while in India its a symbol of friendship. Jo Malone London Incense & Cedrat Prada Candy Prada Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. The Bacchanalians tore him apart. Instantly cooling and utterly refreshing, mint has been infused for centuries in various preparations to be taken as a herbal remedy for digestive complaints, to soothe inflamed skin and also to splash on as a tonic for the senses. The fragrant liquid which refreshed Roman guests and was flung up by fountains all around town, however, was rosewater - the water in which roses have been steeped, then discarded. Lancme Aroma Tonic gives us petitgrain, but in this case its mostly the leaves and twigs from which the oil is extracted. As well as occurring naturally, though, benzyl alcohol may also be chemically produced from petrochemical sources. And where would Guerlains Mitsouko be without the peach-skin warmth of C14? Every perfume produced by Options LTD comes with a range of options for packaging, boxing, branding, and design. Cacharel Anais Anais The galbanum plant produces the gum resin asafoetida, used in Indian cooking (as well as perfumery), which you can read about here. And they smell lovely. Gardeners cultivate these widely, albeit most successfully inside fruit cages because birds, as well as humans, just love the perfectly-ripened fruit The distilled absolute of the blackcurrant buds and leaves is known as bourgeons de cassis (say it boor-shon da cassee): a light, fruity, woody note with a slightly animalic edge. Bulgari BLV Eau de Parfum II LArtisan Parfumeur Th Pour Un Et Thierrys stroke of genius was to plug the gap with a touch of celery seed, instead. Lancme Hypnse Senses There truly is an oudh for all tastes, now! Another note of warning: in its purest commercial form, citral can paralyse the nose for several hours, making it impossible to smell anything at all. 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